The Abbey of San Giovanni in Venere in Fossacesia

About 25 kilometers from our vacation homes is the Abbey of San Giovanni in Venere, one of the most important examples of Benedictine architecture preserved in Abruzzo. It stands on a promontory (at an elevation of 107 meters above sea level) northeast of Fossacesia, from which there is a marvelous panorama encompassing the Gulf of Venus, the mouth of the Sangro River, and the Maiella Mountains. The monastic complex consists of a basilica-shaped church and a monastery with a central cloister, as well as a large surrounding area.

Founded according to tradition on the ruins of a octagonal temple erected by the people of Frentana in honor of Venus Conciliatrice (hence the name San Giovanni in Venere), the church was rebuilt, with the monastery, in 1015, thanks to Trasmondo II, count of Teate (Chieti), whose body is buried in the crypt. Its present appearance, however, is due to the transformations made between 1165 and 1204 by Abbot Odorisio II and subsequent transformations made between 1225 and 1230 by Abbot Rainaldo. In its heyday, the abbey controlled a truly remarkable amount of territory, extending even to the Marches, Apulia, Romagna and Dalmatia. Declared a national monument in 1881, it currently houses a community of Passionist Fathers.

Externally, the church has sandstone blocks in the lower part and bricks in the upper part. The facade is embellished by the main portal, known as the Moon Door because, during the summer solstice, it is reached by the light of the setting sun that illuminates the chancel and crypt. On the portal, Christ, the Virgin and the Baptist are depicted in high relief in the lunette, while scenes inspired by the Old and New Testaments can be seen in the pillar decorations. The Gate of the Sun, on the other hand, is represented by the openings in the apses, which during the winter solstice are pierced by the sun’s rays. On the south side are the Women’s Portal (side entrance) and the severed bell tower.

The interior of the church, in Cistercian style, is divided into three naves supported by twelve pillars and pointed and round arches. Unfortunately, only a few traces remain of the frescoes that once adorned the walls. It features a raised presbytery, framed by a monumental triumphal arch, below which is the crypt, in which columns from the Roman era, belonging to the ancient temple of Venus, make a fine display. The crypt is decorated with high-quality frescoes depicting Christ Blessing and the Virgin Enthroned, painted in the 13th century by anonymous painters, possibly from the workshop of the Roman artist Jacopo Torriti.

Also of interest is the bright 13th-century cloister. Partially reconstructed between 1932 and 1935 on the traces of the original structure, it is accessible from the entrance of the convent or through the portal of the left aisle of the church. The cloister runs along three sides that join the great Gothic arch of the bell tower under whose bay is a Roman sarcophagus. Although it has undergone various interventions over time, it still retains its charm and beauty.

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