Let’s discover Ortona
Located on a promontory overlooking the sea, Ortona is a splendid city that perfectly combines seaside and cultural tourism. Here begins the fascinating Costa dei Trabocchi, characterized by the widespread presence of spectacular wooden constructions similar to stilts (precisely called “trabocchi”) that were once used for fishing. The only overflow still visible in Ortona is that of Punta della Mucchiola, which dates back to the end of the 19th century and currently houses a renowned restaurant where it is possible to taste delicious dishes based on fresh fish.
The origins of Ortona are very remote. Ancient port of the Frentani and probable Roman municipality, it was then occupied by the Goths, the Byzantines, the Lombards and finally by the Normans, who set it on fire in the 11th century. Resurrected under the rule of the Swabians, it was almost razed to the ground during the Second World War and tragically renamed the Stalingrad of Italy (name assigned to it by Winston Churchill). Later, the city was rebuilt and today it is one of the most important seaside resorts in Abruzzo.
The long coastline of Ortona, which stretches for about 20 kilometers, is characterized by a great variety: wide and sandy beaches alternate with inlets, bays, cliffs and headlands. One of the most beautiful beaches is that of Punta dell’Acquabella, which is located within the homonymous Nature Reserve. Set among the rocks, it is so called because it is lapped by particularly clear waters that allow a glimpse of the sand and pebble bottom. The Ripari di Giobbe beach is also wonderful, framed by two stacks and dominated by the green cliff of Ortona. Other beaches include Lido Saraceni, Punta Ferruccio and Lido Riccio.
Ortona, however, is not just sea and beaches. It is characterized by a charming historic center and its past retains a notable artistic heritage. The most significant monument of the city is the majestic Basilica of San Tommaso, in whose crypt the relics of the Apostle Thomas and the chalcedony tombstone stolen from Chios are kept. The building, dating back to the 13th century, was rebuilt after the Second World War. Of the ancient splendor it still retains the two Gothic portals, the sacristy, the Chapel of the S.S. Sacramento and that of St. Thomas. Among the other religious buildings stand out: the Sanctuary of Santa Maria di Costantinopoli, where you can admire a valuable canvas of 1583 by Giambattista Rusconi depicting the Annunciation; and the Chapel of the Miraculous Crucifix, which is an integral part of the structure of the Church of Santa Caterina d’Alessandria.
Not to be missed is the famous panoramic road, known as the Eastern Walk, which reaches the Aragonese Castle, one of the symbols of Ortona. The fortification, built between 1448 and 1452 at the behest of Ferdinand of Aragon, is perched on top of a spur overlooking the sea. Currently the castle is a small garden surrounded by walls and towers. Along the Eastern Promenade is the Palazzo Farnese, one of the most prestigious buildings in the city. Built in the 16th century on a project by the famous Renaissance architect Giacomo della Porta, it was the last residence of Maria Theresa of Austria. Inside is the Cascella Art Gallery, which exhibits works mainly by Basilio Cascella, to whom an entire room is dedicated, and by his son Michele.
In addition to the Cascella Art Gallery, there are three other museums that deserve particular attention: the Diocesan Museum, set up in the rooms adjacent to the Basilica of San Tommaso, which collects evidence of centuries of history of the Ortonese church; the Music Museum of Abruzzo, dedicated in particular to the composer Francesco Paolo Tosti from Ortona; and the Museum of the Battle, which traces the war events that in 1943 led to the almost total destruction of the city.
Ortona is also a must for lovers of good food. In fact, the city boasts a rich and interesting gastronomic tradition. Among the specialties to try: the brodetto all’ortonese, a very appetizing fish soup prepared with multiple fish varieties; the pallotte cace e ove, or meatballs with cheese, eggs and breadcrumbs; the fegatazzo, a cured meat with a mixture of liver, lung, pork spleen, chilli pepper and orange peel; and nevola, Ortona’s dessert par excellence, a crumbly wafer whose main ingredient is cooked must.
